This is a salad I’ve been making since 1980, when we served it at 209 1/2. I never get tired of it, and I haven’t seen on other restaurant menus. The combination is bright, fresh, salty, creamy, crunchy, slightly sweet, with just the right amount of acid, provided by vinegar and citrus. But it also contains significant protein, from the three components.
Start by chopping half a red onion. Place the onion in a bowl and add 1/4 cup apple cider or red wine vinegar, a tablespoon of maple syrup, a teaspoon of salt and a teaspoon of pepper. This will quick pickle the onion, muting its bite and enhancing its flavor. Meanwhile, boil a pound of cleaned green beans in salted water–cook until they are softer than you usually make them; in other words, you want them not to resist your bite but to absorb the flavors of the salad. Start testing at four minutes–it might take six minutes. In our fervor not to overcook green vegetables, we overlook the instances when “crisp” is not desirable. Put the drained, warm, green beans in the bowl with the pickled onions. Toast a cup of walnut pieces or halves until fragrant (try 7 minutes at 350 degrees) and add, with about 8 ounces of drained feta cheese. (If you want to make the dish vegan you could substitute crumbled tofu, marinated in soy and balsamic, for flavor). If you use feta, it’s worth it to buy imported sheep feta, which has a tang and is creamier than domestic feta made from cow’s milk.
Correct the flavors with fresh lemon juice (try 1/2 lemon) and or a good dash of TruLemon powder, and olive oil, at least 1/3 cup. Add chopped parsley, dill, mint, or tarragon for finesse. The salad lasts at least four days in the refrigerator. You can serve it on a bed of lettuce if you like.
Natasha Saje 